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Thinking About Going Natural? Here Are the Haircare Terms You Should Know

Published on by Crystal Lee3 Comments

Whether you’ve just recently decided to go natural or if you’ve long been wearing your hair in its unprocessed form, there’s always so much to learn about having natural hair. Before you attempt to absorb all there is to know about caring for your curls, we’re here to provide you with a few useful terms that’ll likely be of service to you in the long run. This, of course, is in no way a guide to everything you’ve ever wanted to know about natural hair, but we’d say it’s a great start.

Ahead, you’ll find a glossary of sorts, featuring 20 haircare terms that should be in every natural’s vocabulary.

Related: 7 Instagram Natural Hairstyle Accounts That Might Convince You to Do Another Big Chop

Curl Pattern

Curl pattern is a term used to describe the shape of your hair strands when they’re in their natural state. It’s usually broken down into four types: type 1 hair is typically bone straight; type 2 hair is wavy; type 3 hair is curly; and type 4 is coily. From there, the types are broken down into three subcategories each (a, b, and c) that are determined based on the width of your waves or curls.

Elasticity

This refers to your hair’s ability to return to its natural shape after being pulled, stretched, or heated in any way. Hair with low elasticity normally won’t return to its natural shape, while hair with high elasticity will.

Porosity

Porosity refers to your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. It’s looked at in three different categories — low, medium, and high porosity — and it’s normally determined by the way your hair’s cuticles lay. Head over here for a more in-depth breakdown on what that means.

Sulfates

Think of sulfates as the reason why your shampoo lathers up and thickens the way it does when you work it into your hair. They are chemicals that are often found in cleaning products, and they’re widely debated in the hair community, since many people think they’re harmful and have the power to strip the hair of its natural oils and nutrients. On the other hand, there are also those who believe sulfates aren’t as bad for your hair as they’re made out to be.

Humectants

Humectants are chemicals found in hair products that promote moisture retention.

Sealant

Not to be confused with a moisturizer, a sealant is any product that sits on top of the cuticle to hold the moisture in your hair. These typically come in the form of oils and butters, and are to be applied after a moisturizer, since some of the oil molecules aren’t small enough to actually penetrate your hair shaft. Some popular sealants include jojoba oil, Jamaican black castor oil, and shea butter.

Moisturizer

On the flip side, a moisturizer is any product that — you guessed it — moisturizes your hair. When attempting to determine if a product will work as a good moisturizer, consider the amount of water that’s in the product; if water is the first ingredient listed on the label, you should be okay. Leave-in conditioners and light oils (coconut, avocado) often fall into this category.

Transition

Transitioning refers to the process of . . . well . . . “transitioning” from processed or relaxed hair to natural hair. A person who’s in the transitioning phase is someone who’s cut the use of harsh chemicals and heat from their haircare regimen and has opted to grow their hair out in its natural state while slowly trimming off their processed ends. They do this until their natural hair has grown to a length they’re comfortable with and their damaged ends are gone completely.

Big Chop

This process is often looked at as an alternative to transitioning, since big chopping your hair means cutting off all of your relaxed or processed hair at once. That said, you can also transition your hair before performing a big chop, growing it out slowly until you can clearly see where your natural hair and what’s left of your processed strands meet.

Shrinkage

Shrinkage refers to curly or coily hair’s ability to shrink up and look a few inches shorter than it actually is. When your hair is stretched — via twist outs, braid outs, blowouts, etc. (more on that later) — it should be able to shrink back to its normal state, as shrinkage is normally a sign that your hair is healthy and properly moisturized.

LOC Method

LOC is an acronym of “liquid, oil, cream,” and it’s basically a mnemonic device (think PEMDAS or ROYGBIV) that can be used to help you remember how to order certain products when you apply them to your hair. In this case, you’d use a liquid-based product or leave-in conditioner, followed by a sealing oil and a moisturizer.

Twist Out

This one’s a popular styling method achieved by installing several twists throughout a head of wet or damp hair before allowing them to set or dry for several hours. Some people also like to manipulate their twist outs by wrapping flexi rods at the end of each twist to give their ends a little more support in the curl department. Depending on how fast your hair dries, twists are typically taken out within a day or two of being installed, with the end result being a head of superdefined curls that can be worn for days at a time.

Braid Out

A braid out is essentially the same as a twist out, except it’s done with braids. Braid outs often stretch the hair more than twist outs do, which is good for anyone hoping to sport a style that shows off a little more length, but they often take a bit longer to dry as well.

Wash and Go

A wash and go is exactly what it sounds like, though there’s just a little more to it than literally just washing and going. It’s basically when a person washes their hair and wears it out in its natural state without twisting, braiding, or using tools to curl it. Typically leave-in conditioners and other products like curl creams or styling gels are added to keep frizz at bay for these styles.

Protective Style

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A protective style is basically any hairstyle that tucks away the ends of your hair and protects them against possible damage from factors like weather, chemicals, and over-manipulation. Ideally, they require only a small amount of maintenance and are often a go-to for those looking to experiment with various colors and hair lengths without the risk of putting extra stress on their strands.

TWA

An abbreviation of “teeny weeny afro, a TWA is a natural hairstyle formed on hair that’s typically about 1-2 inches in length.

Co-Wash

“Co-wash” is an abbreviation for “conditioner-only washing,” which is pretty self-explanatory. People who use conditioner to cleanse their hair and scalp normally do so as a way to avoid the use of harsh, sulfate-filled shampoos that can often strip the hair of natural oils. Conditioners don’t technically cleanse the hair, though, these days, you can purchase conditioners that have special cleansing benefits.

Pre-Poo

A pre-poo (or pre-shampoo) is an oil or conditioning treatment that’s applied to the hair before shampoo. It’s normally necessary if you’re looking to detangle or add a little extra moisture to your hair ahead of a wash.

Protein Treatment

Protein treatments are reparative products that are used to help strengthen damaged and porous hair by attaching a variety of proteins and nutrients directly to the follicle. Because of how intensive they are, it’s best to limit yourself to using protein-rich products every four to six weeks.

Deep Conditioning Treatment

Not to be confused with protein treatments, deep conditioners are intensive conditioners that provide the hair with an extra boost of moisture after shampooing. They’re usually applied to the hair and allowed to sit for at least 30 mins before being rinsed out. Depending on how dry your hair is, they can normally be used one to two times a week.

Winter Haircare Tips

Published on by Crystal Lee4 Comments


The winter season is upon us and we all know the cold can be bitter sweet. The winter months can attribute to dryness  can be hard on our hair. Black hair care techniques should change throughout the year, especially during the winter, thanks to the cooler temperatures and drier air.

Winter weather can wreak havoc on black hair if no extra care is taken, since excessive dryness leads to hair breakage and a dry scalp. The key to winterizing your hair care regimen is switching to a routine that causes very little stress on your hair throughout winter while preserving moisture. So how do you do this?

01. Wear A Hat:

Protect your hair from the harsh weather changes, by wearing a hat when outside. Wearing a hat covers your delicate strands from harsh winds which could lead to dryness. No one wants dry stiff hair.  I know many of us hate wearing hats, but what’s worse, not being fashion forward, of suffering from dry hair? I’ll say the last option.

Do not go outside with wet hair. Not only can you get sick, but this bad habit can also cause breakage. Depending on where you live and how cold it gets, your hair could even freeze.

Keep your hair wrapped and protected at night. Try wearing a satin bonnet or a scarf to prevent hair from drying while you sleep.

Wear protective styles (i.e. buns, braids, cornrows, etc). If you’re going to wear your hair in a bun, try to avoid pulling your hair, thus adding stress to your hairline. Wearing protective styles help preserve your hair throughout the winter.

Tame flyaways. Dry air can cause static, making even well-moisturized hair unruly. Carry a few unscented anti-static dryer sheets. Pass one over the top your head to immediately calm flyaways.

Wear a hat or a scarf. Wearing some sort of hat or scarf that’s loose enough to allow scalp circulation will protect your hair against cold winds.

Note that some materials, such as wool, tend to be more harmful to Black hair, but since you really shouldn’t venture out into the cold without head protection, try to wear a hat that has a satin lining – or create your own lining.

02. Deep Condition:

Deep Conditioning is one of the most crucial steps in having healthy hair in general. It doesn’t have to be the winter time, however winter is when hair is the driest especially if you live in a cold climate. If you don’t have enough time to leave your conditioner in sit in your hair for 30 minutes, consider using the one minute hair mask treatment from Garnier that I reviewed earlier this week.  I’d also recommend adding an oil, (I love olive oil) to your conditioner for an extra dose of moisture.

Shampoo your hair once a week. Remember that it’s not necessary to shampoo your hair every day, since washing Black hair too often can strip it of much needed natural oils, especially in during winter months, when the hair and scalp are already drier than usual.

Also, remember to use cooler water when wetting your your hair, and to be extra-gentle with wet locks. Try spraying your hair with a leave-in conditioner, using a wide-tooth comb, and blotting with a soft towel (as opposed to vigorously rubbing it, which can lead to even more breakage).

03. Don’t Be Afraid Of A Trim:

I hate getting my hair trimmed, however, it’s so necessary. Removing dead ends helps promote healthy hair growth. I have to tell myself a million times, it’s better to lose some hair to a trim than all hair to split ends; maybe that statement is a bit extreme, but nothing is worse than having long hair that is damaged from root to tip.

04. Minimize The Heat

The quickest way to cause breakage is by using excessive heat. Minimize the use of heating tools to prevent breakage.

Prepare Your Hair. If you decide to use a heating tool, use a hair product to protect your hair from heat. In addition, you can also use a leave-in conditioner accompanied by a heat protecting hair serum to replenish moisture.

Air Dry. Try letting your hair air dry instead of using a blow dryer.

Limit Combing. If you choose to comb your hair while it’s dry, try finger combing instead of using a comb. This will reduce breakage. If you do use a comb, be sure to use a wide tooth shower comb.

Use A Cooler Setting. When using a blow dryer, try using a cooler temperature setting. Your hair may take longer to dry, but it will minimize heat damage.

05. Add An Oil:

Oils are a the best hair care gift the earth could give us. I know I mentioned this above, however if you have dry ends (especially for the curly girls) you can coat the ends in a bit of oil to moisturize the hair without rinsing it out. What most don’t realize is, the ends are the oldest part of the hair and need more attention than the hair towards the scalp. Three great oils that are great for moisturizing the hair (from experience) are:

  1. Argan Oil
  2. Coconut Oil
  3. Olive Oil

To combat winter dryness, this is a crucial step. Moisturizing is extremely important during winter. Also, deep conditioners and hot oil treatments help restore and replenish moisture to your hair.

Use a moisturizer daily or leave-in conditioner. A leave in conditioner can do great things for dry and brittle hair.

Try to use leave-in conditioners with natural ingredients. Some ingredients such as sodium laurel sulfate, mineral oil, and petrolatum cause more dryness, so avoid using products with these ingredients.

Pamper your hair naturally at least once a week. Natural, intensive moisturizers like aloe, shea butter, jojoba or avocado oils can hydrate and revitalize the driest hair.

Deep condition. If your hair becomes persistently dry during the winter, use a deep conditioner or a hot oil treatment.

These products tend to be ultra moisturizing and great for black hair (you can even use a homemade deep conditioner with mayo or avocado). Hot oil treatments are great for replenishing moisture, as well. You can use a variety of different oils for great results, but the best oil to use is jojoba oil, because it is considered to be most like the natural hair oil, called sebum, which is produced from the sebaceous glands in the scalp. Ask your stylist for suggestions regarding the particular products you should use.

06. Eat Right & Consider Vitamins:

The strength of your hair is not only determined by what you put directly on it, but what you put into your body. Simply drink more water and add more fruits and vegetables and you are bound to see improvements in the overall appearance of your hair. If you want to amp it up a bit, consider biotin. Biotin, often known as the “beauty vitamin” can help grow strong hair, promote nail growth and help heal problematic skin.

Retain Moisture. The most important key to combating dryness during the winter is to protect your hair by retaining moisture. Add water to your diet and regimen by drinking at least 8 glasses of water and day and enjoying water-rich fruits and vegetables, such as tomatoes, cucumbers, strawberries and peaches.

Following these simple winter black hair care steps during winter will help prevent some of the winter damage and breakage.

What winter hair care tips do you have?

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