If you think sculpted, lit-from-within glows are only reserved for Hollywood’s elite, think again. Thanks to TikTok, Hollywood beauty secrets are more accessible than ever. Case in point? The underpainting technique exploded on the platform after users discovered celebrity MUA Mary Phillips uses it on stars like Hailey Bieber and Kendall Jenner. Now, the hashtag #MaryPhillipsTechnique has 12.6 million views and counting, and underpainting is poised to be the biggest makeup trend of 2023.
Whether you’re looking to amplify your no-makeup makeup game, seamlessly carve your cheekbones and jawline, or cut back on the amount of product you use, underpainting can help. With this method, you’re guaranteed to have fresh glam all year long. Keep scrolling to learn more.
What is underpainting?
Mary has painted the faces of everyone from Hailey Bieber to Kim Kardashian and her signature touch is a soft glam look. She took to the internet to share her secret, which she dubbed underpainting. Before applying any foundation, Philips focuses on the contour first. Why you may ask? She says by doing it in this order it’s like your ‘laying down the bones under the skin. While many think the result can be messy, you’re left with a natural glow that is as close as you can get to an airbrushed-like effect.
And just FYI this isn’t a new technique, lots of makeup artists do it but Mary’s version of it – and perhaps the fact she has done it on such famous faces – is the one that has caught the internet’s attention.
How to master the underpainting technique
It’s no secret that beneath all flawless makeup lies good skin prep. With underpainting, hydrating the skin beforehand is key; this is especially important because you use less product with this technique and enhance and emphasize the skin. Plus, the better the prep, the better your products will lay. Phillips is a fan of using serums, and moisturizers, and performing gua sha to get the skin ready.
Once the skin’s been prepped, it’s time to lay down the contour. Also, when it comes to the contour, a cream version is your best bet for that delicate, sculpted glow. One of our personal favorites is Merit’s Sheer Sculpting Bronzer. Apply to the hollow of your cheeks, forehead, and jawline, and use a brush to buff it out. Then go in with a smaller brush to shape the nose. Before even thinking about foundation, use a concealer to brighten under the eyes and spot correct any dullness. The Fenty Beauty by Rihanna Pro Filt’r Instant Retouch Longwear Liquid Concealer and Rare Beauty by Selena GomezPositive Light Under Eye Brightener is Hailey Bieber-approved.
Finally, it’s time to complete your base makeup with the actual foundation! Trust us – This step should be done using a large, fluffy brush and lightweight or medium-coverage foundation. Simply tap into the foundation, and apply using an upwards, stippling motion to blend. This is especially important to do around your contour; you don’t want to mix the colors and accidentally create a darker complexion shade.
A soft, fluffy brush is going to be your best friend when it comes to tackling the underpainting technique. To tie the technique together, Phillips finishes with a cream blush and a light veil of pressed bronzing powder to set makeup in place (though you can also use a loose setting powder instead of a bronzer). This should be done with a large powder brush to create a soft, airbrushed finish that looks good IRL and on camera.
There you have it – a soft glam base that’s just as photo-ready as some of the most well-known celebrities.
So, have you tried this viral makeup technique? COMMENT BELOW!
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